Whenever I visit a city for a significant period of time, I try to explore at least one of its cemeteries. Quiet, peaceful, and often situated on a prime piece of real estate, sometimes with incredible views, cemeteries are like public parks without the annoying crowds.
Today I visited Mountain View Cemetery in Oakland, California. It’s large enough to spend an entire day in and never see everything, so I first got the lay of the land in my car before settling on a spot to park and have a closer look on foot. This cemetery dates back to before the Gold Rush of 1849, so the graves are spread out and plenty of land is given to green space, and many of the headstones (or, rather, monuments) illuminate the history of the Bay Area. As I walked I came across railroad magnates, banking tycoons, renowned architects and original 49ers.
I had a similar experience in New Zealand, where I visited two out-of-the-way cemeteries simply for the view, and ended up stumbling upon the modest headstones of a few of the country’s original settlers. More surprising still, the graves were marked with surnames that I recognized, names which still adorned store fronts and real estate offices throughout the modern town. It was as though I had uncovered the past of this place by myself, gaining an insight I would never have had from a museum, and by way of my own curiosity instead of being spoon-fed facts and figures.
As I explored Mountain View Cemetery today, I crossed paths with joggers, dog walkers, and art students sitting on the grass making pencil sketches of the statuary; but in the whole afternoon I saw no more than twenty people. As I came to the top of the highest hill I could find, I turned around and was treated to the most spectacular view of San Francisco Bay I’ve seen yet.
Some cemeteries also have special events that can be fun and unusual. For instance, Hollywood Forever Cemetery in Los Angeles, draws large crowds for their outdoor classic movie screenings during the summer months. They encourage guests to bring a picnic, but the best part by far is their slogan: “Watch classic films beneath (and above) the stars!” (For info visit www.cinespia.org)
What is the most interesting cemetery you’ve visited?
April 14, 2008 at 09:24
Spring Grove Cemetery and Arboretum is the second largest cemetery in the United States. Established in 1845, Spring Grove is beautifully preserved among acres of towering trees, soothing lakes, and winding roadways. Cincinnati families from all walks of life including such notables as Taft, Kroger and Procter have entrusted Spring Grove to preserve their unique family history. Spring Grove serves families representing all religions, cultures, and walks of life.
There are innumerable statues, grand monuments, elaborate mausoleums, and towering obelisks, many of which are of the Victorian era. Many fountains and ponds complete with swans scatter through the large cemetery.
Spring Grove Cemetery & Arboretum has 21 state champion trees and 2 national champion trees. If a tree is designated a champion then it is the largest specimen in the state or the country.
Okay, the above is just a little brochure background about the most mind blowing little Hans Christian Anderson fairy tale world. The first walk through Spring Grove, had me feeling like I had fallen into a miniature of Florence, Italy. Some of the carved stone work was truly awesome. But it was the overall effect of winding roads, blanketed with majestic broadleaf trees and carpeted with whatever seasonal flower was in bloom. And whoaaa Bessie!! when spring arrived with its customary mid west wallop ! The bloomin trees took our collective breaths to some faraway place. The number of little fairy tale castles that would pop up along the route, was staggering. I soon discovered that these tiny castles are mausoleums that hold the bones of entire families.
Well, needless to say, I pedaled, strolled, ambled, trotted, and even rolled through Spring Grove for the 3 years that I lived in Cincinnati. And you know what else, it is not very crowded! It is the best kept secret of Cincinnati. The ones who know about it, are like me, an addict and we got to recognize each other along the daily route, walkin and a joggin and a peddlin. They marry and they bury in the chapels on Spring Grove. The ponds are awesome and so are the swans.
If you ever visit Cincinnati, I’m tellin ya, you gotta take in the Grove!